Monday, October 09, 2006

pie and tea
inside the nest

Restaurant Review!

Lok Huek Yuen l Central l Hong Kong


In Chinese culture, the snake is considered a lazy animal. People who skip work are called “snake kings.” Where do you find lots of “snake kings”? Why, in the “snake’s nest” of course. That’s the nickname for this Central coffee shop which has been acting as a snake magnet for generations.

If anything, this place has a well worn feel and is full of its own idiosyncrasies. I sat in the lookout booth and had a constant stream of waiters sitting across from me staring at the door waiting for customers. Then I had some off duty waiter plop himself down and start puffing away. I’ve lost count of the number of gangster movies that have used the small second floor foyer as a backdrop. On any given day, you’ll see business men, hawkers, and store clerks filling its tables and booths.

The “snake’s nest” is known for a particularly strong Hong Kong style tea with condensed milk. I usually despise this drink but I absolutely love it here. You can taste the floral notes of the tea and it isn’t quite so overcome by the greasy condensed milk. Their chicken tarts are unique as well with a very Chinese crust which is both sweet and brittle, sort of like the tops of pineapple buns. The chicken is roughly shredded to give it a more rustic feel.

Sadly, the “snake’s nest” is only open during the day on weekdays and Saturday. Given the fact that Hong Kong has a 6 day work week, the only way you can eat here is if you do skip out of work. Fittingly enough, that makes everyone in there a “snake king.”

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