Wednesday, October 10, 2007

Podcast!

Here’s my next podcast.



Collapse - Mutemath (2007)
I lived on the Moon – Kwoon (2006)
Irene – Caribou (2007)
One for You – The Knife (2007)
Jesus Saves, I Spend – St Vincent (2007)
After We Have Left Our Homes – Mutemath (2007)
Nantes – Beirut (2007)
Cold Days From the Birdhouse – The Twilight Sad (2007)
The Mending of the Gown – Sunset Rubdown (2007)
The Chills – Peter, Bjorn and John / Modular Remix (2005)
Girls Night Out – The Knife (2007)
Single Again – The Fiery Furnaces (2006)
Stars – Ulrich Schnauss (2007)
Melody Day – Caribou (2007)
Heartbeats – The Knife (2007)
Teardrop – Jose Gonzalez (2007)

To subscribe to the podcast, all you need to do is highlight this following link:
http://www.switchpod.com/users/barbapapa/feed.xml and then copy it. Go to iTunes, highlight podcasts and then under “advanced” you can click on subscribe to podcast. Paste the link into the field and then click update to start downloading!

Monday, October 08, 2007










The End of the Season

May 19 to October 6 is not a long run for a farmer’s market and the Trout Lake Market doesn’t compare to the great markets of the world. In fact, it doesn’t even compare to most outdoor markets in North America. It might be the difficulty of our cloudy, wet climate which limits the range of produce we can produce. This is probably why so much is trucked in from the interior. However, as a way to get real local produce straight from growers, there’s nothing else really like it.

Every Saturday morning, it has become my ritual to head out to Trout Lake, dog in tow, and pick up a few choice items for the week. I chat with the growers and producers while watching the year progress with the change in product. Potatoes, carrots, beets, greens, cheeses, breads and fish come and go with each passing month. The quality and abundance will vary depending on the conditions we are having. For instance, this year, the heirloom tomatoes were very late and strawberries had a short run. However, the mushrooms were outstanding! Chanterelles, Morels and Pine Mushrooms arrived in great numbers and in a steady stream. They became a weekly treat for me-all thanks to the wind storm earlier this year coupled with a cool summer.

Often, you’ll find some interesting strain of fruit or vegetable which warrants further investigation and I sometimes find that curiosity will dictate my cooking for the week. Zucchini flowers are just begging to be stuffed with ricotta cheese, battered and deep fried. A wide variety of beets are ideal for a colorful beet salad. Of course, if you are too hungry to wait, and you can handle the long line ups, Bohemian Crepes serves some stellar crepes that are easily folded and eaten one handed. Which is good seeing as you’ll need your other hand free for groceries.

Sunday, September 09, 2007






Restaurant Review!

Sobo l 1084 Pacific Rim Highway l Tofino


Yes. It’s a trailer off of the highway. Yes it’s in the parking lot of a botanical garden. And yes, it serves some of the best food in the province. After hours of surfing or staring off into miles of beach, there is nothing more satisfying than lunch at this stand out eatery.

The seafood chowder is an absolute wonder. Never have a run across chowder with nothing but spoonful after spoonful of seafood. The fish has the moist rich taste of meat that’s been taken close to the bone. It’s sweet and perfectly balanced by a bit cream, dill and spiciness. The fish tacos must be eaten quickly before the incredibly fresh mango salsa sogs the tortilla. It gets messy but it’s worth it.

However, I have saved the best for last. This is of course something that is so perfect that anytime you order the dish elsewhere, you will face nothing but disappointment. I am talking about their polenta fries with a spicy Caesar dipping sauce. Fried to crisp perfection on the outside yet creamy and smooth inside, I cannot think of anything that I have craved so much in the last few months. I scalded my tongue trying to take as much in with each bite. A week ago, I tried to convince my manager to let me go to Port Alberni to replace some of our equipment. I don’t think that I’ve ever been so heart broken about not being allowed to do my job.





Restaurant Review!

The Crow and Gate l 250.722.3731 l Cedar


It was with utter shock and joy that I found the most authentic English Pub outside of the British Isles. Stuck in the middle of nowhere on Vancouver Island, there lies the quiet English pub, the crow and gate. I had come here hoping to have some excellent local cider but found so much more.

What makes the place so astounding are not menu items such as the Melton Mowbray or the Cheddar Ploughman. It wasn’t the fact that everyone had to queue up to order both their food and drinks. It wasn’t even that fact that the place looked perfect, right down to the uncomfortable booths. No the beauty was the fact that they had somehow captured that atmosphere of ease and comfort. You felt that all these people were just here to whittle away a few hours just like you were. You felt that this was the place that everyone congregated to after a long’s day work. I marveled at it all and drank it all in. That and my fantastic Merridale Estate cider.





Restaurant Review!

Boneta l West Cordova St 604.684.1844 l Vancouver


One muggy July day, I sat at one of many freshly minted tables in this stark establishment. The high ceilings were laden with menacing mirrors that made my friend think ominously of Superman II. Yet, the room was light and seemed to embody the possibilities of a brand new summer.

The cocktails let us unwind, my favorite being the aptly named Devine. The drinks were named after friends and family of the owners. The Devine was an elaborate mix of vodka, rosewater, espresso vodka and cassis. The upfront splash of floral rosewater and cassis faded, I was treated to the wonderful punch of espresso that both woke my senses and begged me to take it for another spin.

After a number of drinks, we felt set for some fare that would give our stomachs some much needed protection. My grilled artic char with lentils was perfectly done. It had a crisp skin that still illustrated the fish’s vibrant colors while the flesh remained moist and just cooked. Simple and unfettered, the dish was well executed though a bit Spartan for the price.

After the evening ended we all somehow felt unsatisfied. The drinks begged for something somewhat substantial to help them along. Were we missing starch? Some sort of richness? Or maybe it was the simple fact that at 9:30, the sky was still light and night was still far from over.

Wednesday, August 15, 2007


Restaurant Review!

Tung Hing Bakery l 1106 Kingsway l Vancouver


Vietnamese cuisine has a strong French influence from its colonial past, but in many ways, it has developed a wholly unique approach. For instance, the beef broth with rice noodle dish that we all know as Phoa is actually derived from the French word Feu, as in the dish Pot-au-feu. The French dish of beef broth with beef and vegetables has taken on a new life with the Vietnamese classic and has become unrecognizable.

Then there is the Vietnamese sandwich known as Banh Mi. Tung Hing has amongst the best since it is, first and foremost, a bakery. The baguette is absolute perfection, a thin crackling crust yields easily into the soft white interior. It’s the perfect anchor for a sandwich with so many flavors. Each bite gives you the deep satisfaction of pate and pork loaf with the fresh sharpness of cilantro and the sweet crunch of daikon and carrots. Every once in while you get the heat of jalapeƱo to refresh your palate while the deep tone of fish sauce settles in the background. And always, there is that bread.

My favorite has always been the meatball or Siu Mai. It’s more of a soft paste of meat and spices than an actual meatball. I have no idea what’s in it and it almost looks raw but please, let’s not ruin the magic.

Sunday, July 29, 2007






The Monthly Ritual




Three years have passed since I first walked into the powder blue Ukrainian Orthodox Church of Main Street and 11th avenue. It was quieter back then and along with the perogies, cabbage rolls and borscht, were home made church desserts. The perogies were potato and cheddar filled; drenched in butter. The cabbage rolls were filled with rice and meat while the borscht was flushed with beats and a brilliant red.

Every month, I would go back, fill in my little order card and line up to the cashier and was served by friendly, hard working Ukrainian church goers who seemed more and more surprised by their success with each passing month. The crowds ebbed and flowed but they were always friendly faces, surprised by the homemade prairie meal materializing on the wet coast. I’ve sat down at the communal tables and talked to young couples freshly established in the neighborhood or visitors from Montreal. All of them had come from word of mouth recommendations.

Now, they no longer make their own desserts and there are often line ups, but for me, it has become a monthly ritual. The write ups in local and national publications has failed to change the charm of the event nor the warmth that can only be produced by a home made meal.

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Podcast!

Here’s my next podcast.

Amsterdam – Peter Bjorn and John
Green Fields – The Good, the Bad, and the Queen
Heartbeats - Jose Gonzales
Fake Empire – The National
Disaster – The Besnard Lakes
My Body is a Cage – The Arcade Fire
To the East – Electrelane
Black Cab – Jens Lekman
Chicago – Sufjan Stevens
Classic Noodling – Do Make Say Think
For Agent 13 – The Besnard Lakes
23 – Blonde Redhead

To subscribe to the podcast, all you need to do is highlight this following link: http://www.switchpod.com/users/barbapapa/feed.xml and then copy it. Go to iTunes, highlight podcasts and then under “advanced” you can click on subscribe to podcast. Paste the link into the field and then click update to start downloading!

Saturday, June 09, 2007




Restaurant Review!

The Jammery l Kelowna BC l 8038 Highway 97

With a name like The Jammery, you will fully expect the shelves of locally made jams and conserves. You’ll expect the quaint grandmotherly feel of the knotted pinewood interior. What you may not expect are some of the best waffles around.

Nice and crispy with a wonderfully fluffy interior, they come served with a choice of a four berry, strawberry, or peach topping. On the side is a perfect side of whipped cream. It’s the sort of thing that makes you wonder why it’s so hard to get good waffles. Waffles have slipped under people’s radar over the years but some astonishingly good waffles can make you question all your breakfast choices.

You can have all-you-can-eat waffles for less than $9 and even make a run at the record of 16 plates. When you have your first few waffles you feel like you could eat them forever but given how delicious they are, I’m not sure that I’d want to ruin the experience.

Sunday, May 20, 2007




Restaurant Review!

Wood Fire Bakery l Kelowna BC l 2041 Harvey Avenue

Do you know what the perfect sandwich is my friend?

It’s plump, moist chicken breasts with a generous slop of mayonnaise. It’s sitting on a bed of smoked ham. The ham has to be salty and smoky and thinly sliced so that it never overpowers the rest of the ingredients. The whole thing is then finished off with Swiss cheese and then placed in a bakery fresh bun before being thrown into a hot oven to finish off. When it comes out, the bread is crisp, the chicken still moist and each bite hits you with the onslaught of cheese, mayonnaise and ham.

The perfect sandwich is a Chicken Cordon Bleu sandwich at the wood fire bakery in Kelowna.

Friday, May 11, 2007


May the Schwartz be With You

How could I say no? The Ridge Theater was showing a documentary on the famous Montreal smoked meat eatery complete with a sandwich flown in from Montreal. As part of the Jewish Film festival, “A Year in the Life of Schwartz’s” drew a nearly packed crowd on a sunny Saturday Afternoon.

The documentary followed the daily events of the staff and customers of the Montreal icon for a period of a year. Venerated eateries often have a timeless feel with menu items virtually untouched for decades. The tables, stools and signs may not changed much but the customers did. Generations filtered through the doors but the food remained unchanged. There’s a real sense of family and community that can develop with both customers and staff bringing a sense of pride to a place that they know and grew up with.

As touching as the movie was, people immediately lined up for the sandwiches once the lights came back on. And who could blame them? The just spent 90 minutes watching people eat the perfect Schwartz’s smoked meat sandwich with a black cherry coke. Sadly, my friend was unable to attend so I held onto her ticket so that I could bring her a sandwich. The line was immense but Frank Silva, the general manager of Schwartz’s, sliced the smoked meat quickly while answering questions from the audience. When I reached the sandwiches, I laid out two paper plates and explained to the organizer that my friend was unable to make it to the movie. To my surprise she told me that only attendees would receive sandwiches. I showed her my two tickets and explained that I had paid for two tickets. Luckily Frank Silva intervened and provided me with the second sandwich as there was plenty of food to go around.

It was hours later before I realized that it may not have played out so well at the Jewish Film Festival, if I had stuck with plan A and asked the lady why she had to be such a Nazi about the sandwiches.






Restaurant Review!

Lucky Fortune l Richmond l 1211-8338 Capstan Way


The next time you go to your favorite Dim Sum restaurant in this city, be aware that you’re participating in a blood sport. You have to wonder how we can support so many Chinese restaurants and the truth of the matter is; we can’t. Places follow an unfortunate cycle of opening fast and hard with amazing prices, excellent food and gathering crowds. Soon prices need to go up, service suffers and the whole thing falls apart. Many of places don’t even make their own Dim Sum as the amount of preparation involved becomes prohibitive at cut throat prices. Let me illustrate the cycle of bust and boom for you.

Lucky Fortune Seafood restaurant opened in earlier this year and I got the chance to sample their Dim Sum. Their shrimp dumplings were amazing with thin, clear wrappings and perfectly springy prawns crammed within. The Siu Mai, with its filling of ground pork was also supported by a generous serving of prawns while the braised beef tendon we had was perfectly steamed, giving it a jelly like texture.

We were so enthralled that just a few days later we went back for King Crab which was in season. Served three ways, the legs were split, piled high with garlic and steamed. Wonderfully sweet, this was a bit overcooked but still reasonable for the price. The joints were deep fried until the shells became crispy and served with a spicy, sweet glaze. When crab is fried at a perfectly high temperature, the shell becomes so brittle that it shatters like phyllo and you can easily get at the sweet succulent package within. The shell was filled with fried rice and baked in a coconut curry sauce. Absolutely divine.

And then came the fall.

Line ups became unmanageable and the quality of the food suffered. The food was becoming over cooked and previous stalwarts like the beef tendon became a gooey mess. Suddenly, as brightly as it had lit up, this star began to fade and fall. Other restaurants opened up with cheap prices and wonderful quality drawing some of its luster.

This is why it has been so hard to find long standing stalwarts that have withstood the test of time. There is a real difficulty in holding talent and quality in this fickle market. The fate of this restaurant, like many before it, will be a steady and unglamorous decline.









Vaisakhi Me!

I love local festivals. The food, the people, the excitement of seeing something new around every corner. I love seeing the Austrian slap dance at the European Festival and the cute kids in Kimonos at Powell Street festival. However, Vaisakhi seemed to elude me over the years. I would always remember, a little too late, that the Sikh celebration of the creation of the Khalsa was being marked with a street festival and parade around Main and Fraser Street. I would show up just in time to find stalls closing up and stores and sponsors fresh out of food.

This year would be different. I made note of the date and showed up with plenty of time to walk the crowded streets. Families were out while businesses, associations and families were handing out free food to the crowds. Everything from pakoras to chai was freely provided while children got masks and balloons. Sweet rice puddings and spicy lentil dishes made the rounds and a generous, boisterous attitude filled the streets.

I watched the slow, methodical parade of floats, bagpipers and drummers pass me by only to find that I had completely missed the activities on Main Street. Through the steady sounds of shouts, laughter and bhangra music I walked towards the other half of the festival to find that most of the stalls had already shutdown.

I guess this means that I’ll have to come back next year to see the other half of the festival.

Tuesday, February 27, 2007





Restaurant Review!

Best of India l Oliver l 36094 97 # 4 Highway / 250.498.0872

My uncle needed to head out to Osoyoos for the day to check on a job site. I had volunteered to drive him there as it was a long distance but I had the ulterior motive of wanting to pick up some hard to find Okanagan wines and to dine one more time at the Best of India in Oliver.

I had stumbled upon the Best of India a few years back while touring the wine country of BC. I was utterly amazed by the quality of the food. Our lamb curry has incredibly nuanced with the full flavor of fresh curry leaves and a hint of creamy nuttiness from ground cashews. This time around, I found that their menu had been trimmed back though no less delicious. Our cheese pakoras were airy and light with just a hint of paneer. Our Saag Paneer was creamy while still retaining the fresh green flavor of spinach. The chicken curry was spicy and bright with curry leaves.

Speaking with the owner, I found that they had decided to simplify and trim the menu back as the kids had grown up and moved on. The couple had run the restaurant for nearly 10 years and had wanted a little less work for themselves now that the kids had gone off to university. He wished me a happy Chinese new year and I thanked him for the delicious meal.




Restaurant Review!

La Buca l Vancouver l 4025 MacDonald St. / 604.730.6988


San Francisco has this amazing ability to generate stellar neighborhood restaurants. Competent yet unpretentious, there is something wholly democratic about the way that they bring a philosophy of simple cooking, excellent ingredients, and a warm room together. You’ll find old couples who have lived in the neighborhood forever and adventurous eaters from the other side of the city seated elbow to elbow in a convivial atmosphere.

Imagine my surprise when I came back to the city to find a picturesque storefront on a quiet little shopping area on Macdonald Street. I’ve had the fortune to dine at La Buca twice and I’ve found that they do a lot of things well. The wine list is very reasonable. A starter of a poached egg on grilled asparagus and Parma ham was wonderful but not as absolutely outstanding as a Caesar salad with whole leaves of romaine hearts and a deep fried anchovy filet. The garlic bread consisted of garlic paste with loads of olive oil on poppy seed bread. The crowd favorite is the veal Osso Buco with fall off the bone tenderness and a little spoon for you to dig out the marrow. My friend’s sausage and green pepper pasta was also well executed with a generous sprinkling of herbed bread crumbs to give the dish some extra crunch. The blood orange panna cotta was excellent and the chocolate truffles we ordered was a good foil as we went back and forth between the two.

I am charmed to find that Vancouver finally has that neighborhood restaurant which doesn’t sacrifice stellar cooking for a sense of Civitas. That pang of longing that I sometimes feel for the Bay Area has diminished of late.




Restaurant Review!

Fetch l Vancouver l Corner of Abbot and Water St.


The mountains are as majestic as ever, crouching over the city in a shroud of mist and snow laden evergreens. I drove over the Lion’s Gate Bridge to find a grey colored watercolor painting on my right with tankers set against the back drop of Spanish banks. On my left, the sun was just peaking through and glancing off the glass spires of downtown. The air had an invigorating purity. Now that I’m back in Vancouver, what could be better than a bracing stroll in the bright winter air?

Finding a hot dog stand on the corner of Abbot and Water St. That’s what. Opened by the same people who brought us Salt Tasting Room, it has the same philosophy of simple ingredients and fantastic condiments. The hot dog itself was an all meat affair served on brioche. Meaty and satisfying, the only thing that made it better was a piling heap of traditional English relish and mustard. There is a surprising array of sauces and toppings with which to dress your hot dog and an even greater number of combinations. Standing on the cobbled streets of Gastown with the mountains and city wrapped around me, I took languid chews of my hot dog and stared at the embarrassment of riches around me.